Sumo – ancient fighting art or fat men messing around in nappies?

May 29, 2010 by Draycat

The harder they come...

This week I had the opportunity to take some shots at the Grand Sumo event in Tokyo.

Looking at sumo from the outside, it seems like a very strange sport – two fat dudes in nappies trying to push each other out of a ring. If you think like this then your vision of sumo is simply a cellulite and butt crack bonanza, and not really something to be taken seriously. But when you look a little further into sumo you realise that there is much more to it.

In sumo, like any sport, there are techniques to win and this is where the skill comes in. When one wrestler is substantially bigger/fatter than another then it seems on the surface that he will head for an easy win, but when you take into account the agility, speed, strength, posturing and general trickery of these wrestlers then it becomes far less easy to predict the winner. This is the hook of sumo, you can never predict which way it will go and all too often it’s that bigger/fatter wrestler that goes flying out of the ring into the audience.

Each grand sumo event lasts for about 2 weeks, and even though there are bouts throughout each day, people usually skip the lower level bouts which happen in the morning and early afternoon, and come only to see the higher level ‘Ozeki’ wrestlers. Although the top level wrestlers are impressive you don’t really realise how impressive they are until you watch lower levels, it is only then you really appreciate how fast, strong, and skillful those high level wrestlers are.

In photography terms too there is a great advantage to watching the lower level bouts. Generally few people come to these bouts so you can get very close to the action without restrictions – right up to the edge of the ring which can make for some great shots. I used my 135mm f2 for this and it really came into its own. I definitely recommend a fast lens if you ever photograph sumo. Once it’s time for the high level wrestlers, then security appears and you are shoved back into the cheap seats, which for me meant adding a 1.4x extender. With a slower lens you will most likely be forced to use a tripod to get any usable shots especially if you are getting into the 300mm range.

Below are some shots from the event and you can find more of my shots here
or use the link from the top right menu on this blog page.

Preparing the ring before the start.

At the early part of the day the junior bouts take place, even the referee is a junior.

Getting to grips - the bigger man does not always win. This complete unpredictability is one of the hooks of sumo.

A competitor for the next bout watches from the ringside.

The winner is not always clear, in those situations the judge gather to decide the result.

Later in the day the pro's work their magic, after watching the younger wrestlers you begin to understand how good these guys really are.

Hakuho - currently the undisputed number 1 in sumo.

Zojoji jizo – the souls of a thousand children

May 10, 2010 by Draycat

There are many temples in Tokyo, but there is something special and at the same time saddening about Zojoji temple, which lies in the shadow of Tokyo tower.

As you walk through the temple gates you are greeted by the sight of the magnificent temple standing in all its glory at the end of the path. But then something to the right catches your eye and as you investigate further your eyes become transfixed upon the almost endless lines of small statues, each wearing a small, red, hand-knitted cap.

These small statues are called ‘jizo’ statues and represent children who have died. Each statue is accompanied by a small windmill, a child’s toy, and they turn in the breeze as if the souls of the children were brushing past them as they played.

They word ‘jizo’ represents the god who cares for children who have died, and this place is where people come to see their babies off into the afterlife after a tragedy.

Next to some of the statues you can see toys left by the parents, and the most saddening sight of all is when you see toys left recently. This signifies a recent death.

Yet at the same time this does not feel like a sad place, somehow the statues bring a feeling of calmness and beauty, which can be felt even at night as the streetlamps illuminate them.

Somehow after leaving the jizo and the temple we are reminded how lucky we are to have got this far in our lives…

Lines of 'Jizo' statues at Zojoji temple in Tokyo.

Each statue has a child's windmill next to it

A close-up of one of the Jizo statues

Toys and other decoration signify a recent a death

Parents leave toys as offerings for their children to play with in the afterlife

This is not a scary place, and even at night there is a calmness in the air

At night streetlamps illuminate the jizo giving the impression they are standing guard over Zojoji

Matsuri – The Japanese salaryman discovers his baser side

November 9, 2009 by Draycat

One of the nice things about being a foreigner in Japan is that you have the ability to see things from a different, slightly leftfield perspective. Take, for example, the late summer festival called Matsuri. Ask any Japanese person and they will tell you that it’s a long-established festival where people dress in a special traditional style of clothing and carry a small shrine (Mikoshi) in order to pray for a good harvest. But the first time I saw the Matsuri festival it looked like a bunch of chanting men walking around in their underwear and carrying a large, golden doll’s house.

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Now after some years my view of matsuri has changed – it’s an outlet for the many frustrations of modern life in Japan. During matsuri people take on an alter ego and revert to a more basic ‘me hunter’ kind of time. It’s quite a refreshing change from the reserved conservatism or ridiculous over-fashionableness we usually see in Japan, especially in Tokyo. When men carry the Mikoshi it’s almost like witnessing Vikings (minus the silly helmets) carrying their boat to the ocean ready to go out and pillage. As the main part of the procession passes you, you are hit with waves of body heat, testosterone, and sweat as people shake off their normal personas for a few hours to return to a less complex time. For that brief period you can clearly sense a feeling of empowerment, strength and confidence. Crowded commuter trains, report deadlines and office politics all go out of the window, and all there is is that moment where men can be men unconstrained by the pressures of modern living.

It’s easy to see why matsuri is still popular in Japan, despite the fact that most people are no longer employed in agriculture, and why almost every urban area, no matter how small, has one.

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Tsukiji – Experience the world’s biggest fish market (providing you don’t get run over while you’re there!)

September 26, 2009 by Draycat

If you pick up any guidebook to Japan or Tokyo one of the recommended places to visit will be Tsukiji market.

Tsukiji is the biggest fish and seafood market in the world, which probably doesn’t sound that interesting unless you are a fisherman or have a fetish for things wet and slimy, but in fact a visit to Tsukiji is quite an adventure.

If you can get up early enough (and afford a taxi as the trains haven’t started running at that time) then the main attraction is the tuna auction, which opens around 5am. Here you can see freshly caught tuna, some about the size of a canoe, being sold to retailers and restaurants.

narrow walkways and fastmoving 'turrent carts' - not a journey for the faint-hearted!

Narrow walkways and fastmoving 'turret carts' - not a journey for the faint-hearted!

The main challenge is to get to the auction area – not as easy as it seems. First you have to weave your way around the ‘turret carts’ that speed through the market picking things up and dropping them off. They don’t stop or slow down so you have to be sure to move out of the way unless you want to see what one looks like from underneath (just after it runs you over). Next you have to work out where to go as there are no signs for visitors except the one over the door to the auction, which says ‘visitors entrance’, but to find this place is a test of endurance – Tsukiji is a real maze and stall holders don’t tend to help you as tourists seem to be considered a nuisance that get in the way of people doing their jobs – so people just tend to follow the other tourists they see – just hope they are going in the right direction.

When you eventually make it the auction visitor’s entrance you are herded into a small viewing area, while a security guy waves a ‘no flash’ sign at you as you enter and throughout your time in the visitors ‘corral’. Get there early if you want to get a chance to photograph the larger tuna, otherwise you’ll find yourself with four rows of people in front of you and very little chance to see or photograph anything except the back of someone’s head. The viewing area is not large and I saw all kinds of ingenious ways that people tried to raise their cameras high enough to take pictures and video over the heads of the people in front of them. If you don’t manage to get in the front row for the larger tuna auction then you have two options 1. take out that small Uzi that you carry around with you for just such situations and give it a quick burst or 2. simply face the other direction and you’ll have a great view of the smaller tuna auction (smaller fish that is and to be honest they’re still pretty big!). Generally people seem to have no interest in the smaller tuna auction even though it’s just as interesting (I’m resisting a ‘size matters’ type pun here!), so take advantage of that fact.

Tuna on display ready for the auction

Tuna on display ready for the auction

Some of the larger tuna being inspected

Some of the larger tuna being inspected

Official brokers, middle-men between the market and restaurants etc, walk around the tuna. They prod them, rip small pieces off and examine them with a torch and even taste bits. Eventually a bell rings and then the auctioneer begins babbling at a super fast pace, while the buyers make various gestures to place their bids.

Buyers checking the tuna and deciding which they want to bid on

Buyers checking the tuna and deciding which they want to bid on

Buyers checking the tuna and deciding which they want to bid on

Buyers checking the tuna and deciding which they want to bid on

Buyers use bright torches to get a indication of quality

Buyers use bright torches to get a indication of quality

The bell rings...

The bell rings...

...the auction master babbles out prices at indisguistable pace...

...the auction master babbles out prices at indistinguishable pace...

...and the bidding begins

...and the bidding begins

Once it’s all over the tuna is packed back into ice and transported to other places around the market and around Tokyo, and then to be sold on to restaurants around Tokyo. After this you can stroll around the market watching stall holders cut the fish with metre long saws, as well as seeing a wonderful array of fish and shellfish on ice. Don’t expect to buy anything in the market though, unless you can afford to buy and eat fish by the kilo – it’s geared up to sell to smaller retailers – but it’s an interesting experience watching everything being prepared. Then you can queue at one of the market’s sushi restaurants and get the world’s freshest sushi, but be prepared to wait as everyone else has the same idea. Alternatively you can head out of the market (after you have managed to find the way again) and head to one of the local places outside the market which tend to be less busy.

Tuna being packed up ready for shipping to the buyer

Tuna being packed up ready for shipping to the buyer

Walking around the market afterwards you can see an array of sights, and smells, inc. tuna being cut to size with special 1 metre long knives and saws.

Walking around the market afterwards you can see an array of sights, and smells, inc. tuna being cut to size with special 1 metre long knives and saws

The main market

The main market

The main market

The main market

1st Post – Thank you to my wife, Aki.

September 22, 2009 by Draycat

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This is my first blog entry on this shiny new site. Over the past few days I have been tearing my hair out altering small bits of HTML code and CSS stylesheets to get things the way I wanted them (and I didn’t even design this from scratch!), while my wife has been super patient putting up with all my growling, complaining and frustrations. I am a truely blessed man, and I would like to thank Aki for putting up with me these past few days and at other times being a photography widow while I run around Tokyo with my camera.

Today we went out shooting together, so as a tribute I am featuring a few of her shots, plus a shot that I took of her.

Aki by Draycat